It's December 31, and over on the iBOB list, people have been posting what they tried and liked in 2025. Here's what I have for this year:
| Selfie during Dairy Roubaix 2025 |
Liked
Undecided
Disliked
It's December 31, and over on the iBOB list, people have been posting what they tried and liked in 2025. Here's what I have for this year:
| Selfie during Dairy Roubaix 2025 |
I thought I didn't have a lot for this year's edition of tried-and-liked. But once you get going, things add up.
![]() |
| Droopy seat bag |
![]() |
| Wahoo surgery |
For years, my casual cycling shoe of choice was the Giro Rumble VR. I extensively reviewed the shoes on this blog. While I've had my complaints about them, on balance they were a great shoe and the ended up lasting longer than I thought. I actually still have an unused spare pair in the closet. But when it was time to retire the current pair, I was curious to try something different.
The Adidas Velosamba struck me as an interesting option. I'm German, and even though I never owned an actual Samba shoe, the aesthetic appeals to me. Add to that they're vegan and Adidas was selling them at a discount.
Let's start with the looks. The shoes come in 7 different styles, from the classic black with gum sole and white stripes, some more colorful options, and finally an all white shoe. If you know me, you would be surprised that I went for the all-white shoe! Is a white cycling shoe actually practical? I had my doubts, but in the end those were the ones on sale at the steepest discount while still being available in my size. So I was willing to take a gamble. When the shoes arrived, I was really pleased: The white is bright, and slight iridescent under light. The upper material is mostly very smooth plastic and probably cleans up fairly well. At the front of the shoe, there is some fake suede leather, which probably is more challenging to keep clean. The laces are white as well, with black ends as a color accent.
Functionally, the Velosamba has a few nice features: The lace retention system is well thought out. You can tuck the laces under an elastic band, which is easily lifted with a little pull tab. The cutout for the SPD cleats also seems to be well thought out: These so far have been the least crunchy bike shoes I've ever owned! Maybe this will change as the shoes wear, but it's unlike the Giros, which were crunchy from the get go.
![]() |
| Clever lace retention tab |
Speaking of the sole: it seems to be a decent compromise between stiffness for biking and flex for walking. This makes them a great choice for my use case, where I want want a shoe that can easily transition from the bike to walking around town. It appears that the Velosamba is cut lower around the ankles and the heel compared to the Giros. This probably provides less support but probably won't be an issue for me: I often ride with shoe laces barely tightened, but I can see how for some people this might be a problem on longer rides/walks. At any rate, I have neither biked nor walked for longer distances in the shoes so far, and so I'll hold off on a final verdict.
![]() |
| Nicely recessed cleats make for a quiet walk |
So let's come back to the comparison with the Giro Rumble VR. In a head to head comparison, Adidas wins in these areas:
The Giros are ahead in:
Once I've had the chance to wear the Velosambas for a few months I'll post a follow-up to these first impression. So far I'm really happy with my purchase.
A year ago at this time of the year I was recovering from a broken wrist. Not a great mental place to write about bike stuff and so I skipped the tried-and-liked post for the year. Time to pick up the tradition again!
When I broke my wrist in October 2020, it was clear I'd be off outdoor biking for a while. Hesitantly I bought a direct-drive smart trainer, a refurbished Wahoo Kickr. "Hesitantly" because my previous attempts at indoor riding had fallen firmly into the disliked category: Too boring; can't do it. But I knew that I'm a sucker for gamification, and so I figured virtual riding on a smart trainer, with badges, achievements, group rides may just work. And it did! I have spent 47 hours on the trainer in 2021, have gotten the SO and some friends onto it, and recently started doing and enjoying virtual races. Indoor riding will remain a cold-season-only activity for me, but during that time it's really great!
| Indoor biking is a sweaty affair |
A true tried-and-liked! I finally did a track cycling clinic at the Kenosha velodrome and loved. For practical reasons, this will remain a one-time affair, but it was one of my highlights of the year. Full post here.
I do pretty much all bike maintenance myself. The reason: I'm cheap; I can do it; I have traumatic experiences of crappy/expensive repairs at a shop; being car-less makes getting a bike to/from the shop for repairs a pain. But when the hydraulic brakes on my fat bikes needed to be bled, I decided to take the bike to a shop. I have little experience with hydraulic brakes and lacked some supplies. Neff Cycle Service took care of it quickly, competently, and at a very reasonable cost. The transportation problem was solved with the help of our bike share system: Bike to the station nearest to the shop; switch to the bike share bike while ghost riding the fat bike; drop off bike; take bike share bike back to station near home.
In the US I almost exclusively use Strava for planning my routes. While in Germany for a few weeks in the summer, Komoot was a much better alternative. A good route planner needs good underlying maps, a strong community, and a good user interface. In Germany, Komoot has all three of these. It was super easy to click on a couple of "Highlights" on the map and be confident that the proposed route connecting them would be fun (occasionally type 2 fun, but still).
There is joy in handling a really well made product. The Silca Tattico mini pump is such a product. I bought the pump when it was on sale, and it is a joy to use. Is it functionally better than my ProBikeKit mini pump that costs less than half and that I reviewed favorably in 2019? Better: yes. Much better? Probably not. Is it as light as the Nana Ultralight carbon mini pump? Surely not. But I have no regrets about buying the Silca.
| Velocio jersey |
My bike kit in the past has consisted of cheap stuff: Jerseys bought for less than $15 new, bike shorts from cheap house brands, ...There were a few exceptions over the years, such as Bouré bib shorts or Ibex wool tights. This year I decided to try some really expensive jerseys and bib shorts. Because prices for these are still ridiculous, I bargain hunted for used items on ebay, various bike forums, and I bought some "mystery jerseys" from Voler (these are overstock items with random graphics from events or clubs). The verdict is mixed: Construction and material quality on the jerseys is noticeably better, and they have neat details that look and feel nice. But all that's no good if the fit doesn't work. Here's what I tried and my verdict:
For bib shorts I bought used ones from Search and State, Ornot, and Eliel California. Features I liked: wide leg grippers and compressive fit. Some of the chamois were fine, others were so so. I don't think overall I noticed a great improvement over the more affordable Bouré products.
All in all, at full price I would never buy any of these. I understand where some of the expense is coming from (materials, quality, county of manufacture, and yes, marketing), but $180 for a jersey? $250 for bib shorts? Nah.
I bought and built up an XL Crust Lightning Bolt frame (cantilever version) and mostly like it. As described in this thread on the 650B group, the handling has some issues. Depending on how those get resolved, I'll make a final verdict on the bike.
I experimented with various heart rate and cadence sensors. The experiences have been a mixed bag. For chest-strap heart rate monitors I have found that cheap Chinese ones get the job done just fine. For whatever reasons that has not been true for cadence sensors. Maybe it is because they need to transmit over a longer distance (crank to handlebars vs. chest to handlebars for a heart rate monitor), but I could not make two different cheap ones work reliably. The more expensive Wahoo sensor that I eventually bought works just fine.
While in Germany over the summer, there was an opportunity to join large group touring ride. The ride was a multi-day protest ride from Frankfurt to Munich, and I joined for one stage. It was a great experience for many reasons, but I wouldn't have wanted to do this style of group riding for more than a day. The organizers were absolutely top notch. With 20-40 people riding on public roads, you need a high level of coordination: A lead and a sweep connected through radios; participants corking intersections to prevent drivers breaking up the convoy; maintaining a speed that works for everyone; dealing with angry people in cars. Not my preferred style of riding.
I bought a Crust Lightning Bolt frame (the cantilever brake version) and here are notes and photos from the build.
It's always helpful to weigh the frame and fork before building a bike. My XL/61cm frame weighs 2.22 kg (4.9 lbs), the fork comes in at 0.89 kg (1.96 lbs).
When the production version of the Lightning Bolt came out I was very close to buying it right away, but the brown color really turned me off. On the box, it's called "Champagne Brown," which sounds ridiculous but actually makes some sense: Yes, it's brown, but a brown with a light sparkle to it. When I sent a photo of the bike to my mom, she responded, "Oh, a golden bike! How pretty!" I've come to the conclusion that the color is actually pretty nice and classy.
I went with a cheap-ish Tange-Seiki Levin headset for the build. Roller bearing headsets are hard to come by these days, and my low-trail Gunnar works fine with a regular headset. Reading other people's build reports, one thing that was mentioned that headset installation was difficult because of an oversized crown race seat. My own measurements showed that the diameter is almost 0.1 mm above spec. I tried getting the race on with my crappy DIY tool made from a PVC pipe, but it quickly became clear this wouldn't work. I took it to the LBS and they got it on no problem -- actually the mechanic complimented the "tone" of my fork when hammering it in. Uh huh. Pressing the cups also took a lot of effort and I was glad to have borrowed a friend's Park Tool headset press rather than relying on a DIY solution.
I haven't bought a new frame for over 10 years, and so I figured I may build it up with the nice parts from my stash. I had a NOS set of Dura Ace 7800 downtube shifters that I had been saving for years. This is the relatively rare 10-speed version that can be switched between friction and indexed shifting in the rear.
Transferring over the Velo Orange fenders from my SOMA was unproblematic. The distance from the fender to the seat/chainstay bridges appears to be slightly smaller than on the SOMA, meaning I didn't need as many washers.
The chainstays on the Lightning Bolt are seriously shaped and crushed to maximize tire and crank clearance. I suspect I may be able to get use a shorter bottom bracket than on the SOMA and get a lower Q factor that way. The cranks are IRD Defiant subcompacts with 46/30 rings.
And indeed: With a 113 mm bottom bracket (IRD actually recommend a 118 mm), there is a lot of clearance:
Because of the shaped chain stays, I opted for shellacked twine as a chainstay protector. I ran out of twine and so it's a little short for now.
The prototype for this frame had a frame-mounted rear cable hanger. The production version does not, and so I used a Surly hanger. Space between the bolt and seat post is tight, and I filed down the hanger to make it work.
For the rear I transferred over an old Shimano STX RC, a mid-range 7-speed derailleur from the 1990s. In the front I installed a new Shimano CX-70 derailleur. I have this one on my Gunnar as well, as it was recommended as working well with sub-compact drivetrains. My own experience has been mixed -- there is a lot of trimming required to avoid chain rub. This seems to be the case on the Lightning Bolt as well, and I'll have to try fine tuning the positioning of the derailleur. It doesn't help that the big chainring has a small amount of wobble...
![]() |
| Shimano CX-70 derailleur and IRD 46/30 crankset |
Brooks saddles often require seatposts with a large amount of setback. On the SOMA I had a very hammock-like Brooks B17 Imperial mounted on a Velo Orange Grand Cru long setback post. On the first ride my position felt very wrong, and this was mostly due to the seat being too far back. I have since replaced the VO seatpost with a Thomson Elite.
![]() |
| Thomson Elite setback post with an old WTB saddle that has titanium rails (yay) but isn't all that comfortable (boo) |
The decaleur is the weakest link in the build at the moment. It's the cheap Velo Orange decaleur, which has worked surprisingly well on the SOMA. On this build, however, it ends up too low for my bag. Because the Lightning Bolt has less headtube extension than the SOMA, I can't get it up high enough with a bag as tall as mine. No decision yet on how to address this.
![]() |
| Velo Orange decaleur: Too low for my tall bag |
Tektro CR-720s are my go to affordable cantilever brakes. I may eventually replace them with something more blingy, but they look nice and do their job.
Transferring parts over from one bike to another made for a quick and fun build. The only obvious flaw of the Lightning Bolt is a lack of cable guides for my generator hub. Eventually I'll clean up the cable routing, but with a frame at this price point and aimed at long-distance riders, guides on the fork and frame would have been nice. I don't anticipate making any substantial changes to the build in the foreseeable future, except for the decaleur. Stay tuned for a separate post on ride impressions.
![]() |
| Photo credit: Mark Renner |
| My Wandrer map: Blue are the streets I have ridden on; red the ones I still need to ride |
![]() |
| Much reflection! |