Sunday, November 4, 2018

Coffeeneuring 2018: Hood Canal


This coffeeneuring season has seen me traveling much more than usual. First Boston, and then last weekend I had the opportunity to visit Seattle for the first time. Even though November is he rainiest time of the year there, I was determined to get a long bike ride in. Bike rental options in Seattle were much more reasonable than what I had found in Boston. Instead of paying over $100 for a fancy road bike, I was able to find a budget gravel bike delivered to my hotel for less than $60. My plan was to retrace part of the route of the Bicycle Quarterly Un-Meeting.

My bike was delivered by bike trailer at 9am. From Seattle, I took the ferry to Bremerton. The sky stood in stark division. South, there was sun and clear skies; north there were dark clouds and heavy rain. The ferry cut right through the middle, at times pounded on by the rain, at time sailing under the beautiful sun. By the time I disembarked in Bremerton, the weather was beautiful. It was clear enough to even catch a glimpse of the tall peaks of the Olympic mountains in the distance.

I navigated by cue sheet, missing a turn a mere 10 minutes into the ride, but once I was out of the city, navigation was easy After a good hour, I reached Belfair, at the far end of the Hood Canal. Suddenly there was a lot of traffic. On a two-lane road with narrow or no shoulders at all that was irritating. Since I was out of water anyway, I used the opportunity for a brief stop at Belfair State Park. A strong wind blew over the water from the west. What was bothersome for me as a westbound cyclist was great for the kite surfers at the park.
It planes!

Soon after I had left the park, traffic disappeared as quickly as it had appeared, for no apparent reason. The road now hugged the northern shoreline of the Hood Canal. This made for a stunning ride experience.  
My only complaints now were the continuing stiff headwind and the equally stiff sidewalls of my tires. My rental bike had 28-millimeter-tires of the stiffest variety. And so the vibrations from the rough road surface were transmitted straight into my body. In Wisconsin we have roads with potholes and buckles from winter's freeze-and-thaw cycles. But we do not have these long stretches of coarse chip seal surface that made me yearn for wide, supple tires.

After reaching the Tahuya River, my route took me inland. From looking at the elevation profile, I knew that I was up for a tough climb. And indeed, Belfair–Tahuya Road delivered. The climb has an average grade over 10%, and I was happy that at least it was short. Once on top, the reward was a view of the Olympic mountains through tall trees. The road turned into a fun roller coaster, albeit a roller coaster with very rough tracks. 
"To the wall, keep left"
Reward for the climb
Tired body, happy mind
Shortly before I would rejoin the shore, I decided to turn right on Elfendahl Pass Road. On the topo map the road had looked promising: dense contour lines on both sides, and the road following a stream. The map hadn't lied, and this stretch of road was amazing.
Lined by tall trees and lush undergrowth, a gurgling creek accompanying me on the windy, leaf-covered road.
Effendahl Pass Road


To get back to Bremerton, I retraced the route I had come in on. I made it to the ferry terminal just in time to catch the 4:30pm ferry. To make it a proper coffeeneuring trip, I bought coffee and a beer in the ferry's galley. “That's the best combo,” the person at the check-out remarked, and I couldn't have agreed more!



Every bike ride should end with a ferry passage!



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